Melbourne’s culinary revival: where affordability meets sophistication

Melbourne’s reputation as a culinary hotspot in Australia is well-deserved. The Victorian city rivals some of the world’s greatest foodie destinations due to its breadth of options; there is something for everyone at any time of the day or night. But Melbourne isn’t a city to rest on its gastronomic laurels. On a recent visit, I had the opportunity to explore a raft of new options that had opened in time for the city’s bustling “Mad March” period, when events like the Australian Grand Prix and the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival take place. On a surprisingly sunny autumn afternoon, we found ourselves at Brewmanity on its opening day. This venue sets itself apart from other Melbourne breweries by billing itself as the city’s “first rooftop brewery bar”. While there are many other rooftop bars in the city, Brewmanity stands out for the casual, laid-back approach one would expect from a brewery experience. It’s no wonder its co-founder is former Melbourne Football Club captain David Neitz, with its blokey, pub-grub atmosphere. The place to be seen is undoubtedly the vibrant rooftop space, where you can order at your table (via QR code) or head to the bar. The beer brand was established in 2015 as a charity fundraiser by Neitz and former teammate Paul Hopgood to support their long-time coach Neale Daniher in his battle against motor neurone disease, and it has almost raised $1 million so far. The three-level, 400-capacity venue on Tope Street, formerly a glass factory and a short walk from Southbank, marks Brewmanity’s first foray into a permanent venue space. Given the popularity of its brews, there are almost 15 types of beer on tap throughout the space, but there are also affordable wine and cocktail options, including the popular spicy margaritas, along with well priced, comfort food typical of this type of establishment. It seems that this casual pub-style dining is all the rage in Melbourne at the moment, with other new venues we visited carrying a more affordable, accessible vibe. This could be a reflection of the current cost of living, as these new venues are trying to appeal to the masses with affordable yet high-quality food and super-cool fit-outs, rather than going for the ultra-expensive, degustation, fine-dining options that were once synonymous with Melbourne’s hot tables. The Gertrude Hotel, a classic corner pub in Fitzroy, and Johnny’s Green Room, a rooftop in Carlton, have both recently reopened with Italian-style makeovers. While their renovations would once have suited a more high-end price point, both restaurants are striving to attract the masses with mains under $40, yet still making diners feel welcome to revisit the long lunch tradition, complete with extensive modern cocktail lists. Johnny’s, set in the Italian foodie hub of Carlton, also has the appeal of a menu by celebrity chef Karen Martini, featuring pizzas as mains complemented by a range of Italian antipasti starters. Even Melbourne’s hottest new restaurant, Kafeneion, has kept its prices affordable for the masses flooding into this narrow space below the popular Siglo bar and above The European when they can snag a table. Starting as a popular but temporary pop-up, the Greek restaurant has set up within the iconic Melbourne Supper Club, with space for 100 diners and late-night dining hours (it’s open until 4am on some nights, with plans to move to seven days a week). Walking into Kafeneion (a spin on “kafenio” the Greek term for a traditional coffeehouse) is like stepping back in time, with its interior resembling a late-night bar from Athens’ old quarter with its tightly spaced tables with white tablecloths and bentwood chairs. Kafeneion’s food is elevated home-style Greek cooking. You can order from the a la carte menu, but let the team feed you, and you’ll be presented with so much food that you won’t be able to see the table, and it won’t break the bank. While everything was amazing, from the appetisers such as hot fava bean dip and crusty white bread to the mains including a phenomenally tasty braised beef cheek with clove and tomato, the star of the show is its orange filo cake dessert served with house-made ice-cream, which will undoubtedly become a word-of-mouth hit for the restaurant. With so much choice in Melbourne, Kafeneion has struck a chord with celebrities such as The Block’s Darren Palmer and Real Housewife Gina Liano, who were also seen dining there on the same night, rather than opting for something more high-end. As Melbourne’s culinary scene continues to evolve, the city is embracing a new era with casual cool the modern trend. From laid-back brewery bars to elevated home-style cuisine, the latest wave of restaurants is redefining dining experiences by offering affordable indulgence without compromising on quality or ambience. Melbourne’s hot tables are no longer synonymous with over-the-top fine dining, but rather offering accessible yet refined flavours and atmospheres that cater to diverse tastes. As the city solidifies its reputation as a world-class foodie destination, this laid-back approach is setting a new benchmark, seamlessly blending quality, creativity and an inviting vibe that appeals to locals and visitors alike. For food lovers in the know, this relaxed renaissance is what dining out in Melbourne is all about these days. + Ross McRae was a guest of Visit Victoria. They have not influenced or seen this story. fact file Brewmanity. 50 Tope St, South Melbourne. For more information visit brewmanity.com.au. The Gertrude Hotel. 148 Gertrude St, Fitzroy. For more information visit thegertrude.com.au. Johnny’s Green Room. Level 2/293-297 Lygon St, Carlton. For more information visit johnnysgreenroom.com. Kafeneion. First Floor/161 Spring St, Melbourne. For more information visit kafeneion.com.au.