On a quirky quest in New Zealand

Why stay in a functional yet characterless motel room when you can opt for a converted chapel, a Bedford bus, a shepherd’s hut, a tiny mountain cabin or a yurt instead? Well, that was my view on a recent three-week tour of New Zealand South Island.

For our 3500km road trip, which started and ended in Christchurch, I wanted to stay in as many quirky Airbnb listings as we could. Our Christchurch accommodation was a standard bedroom and bathroom, beautifully decorated, well equipped and perfectly functional, but not quirky.

Our quirky quest started in Fairlie, our base for the stunning Lake Tekapo and Mt Cook. Starlight Oasis was described by host Christine as a “cosy and unique space”. It was indeed. The accommodation comprised a shepherd’s hut at the end of Christine’s beautiful garden. The hut was small, but mighty, and featured everything we needed, including a fabulous shower for such a small space. The interior decor was flowery, pastel blues and pink, very Cath Kidston style, with every detail so well thought out.

Starlight Oasis also came with breakfast and treats, including Christine’s homemade lolly cake.

The accommodation is a hit with travellers, with Christine revealing from early November through to March the hut is available for only a handful of nights.

We then went from the sublime to the ridiculous, staying in a cavernous and stunning converted chapel in Oamaru. There was no doubt it was a former chapel, with an altar; stained glass windows; 7m-high ornate ceilings and extensive marble work. In such a grand space only a four-poster bed would suffice. The California King four-poster bed was adorned with lavish drapes and luxurious bed linen and slightly elevated on an Oamaru stone platform with views of the garden through the stained-glass window.

The converted chapel was one voluminous room featuring the altar at one end, a sitting area, the centrepiece four-poster bed, a kitchen and dining area, with a separate bathroom along the corridor. All of the fixtures and equipment were top end.

It was a unique experience, albeit described as “a bit creepy” by my husband. I loved every minute of our one-night stay, until 4am when creaking floorboards resulted in my overactive imagination conjuring images of spirit nuns coming to punish me rather than my husband going to the toilet.

We then had a string of cute and tiny abodes, including a cabin in Te Anau with just enough room to swing a cat, and a Fox Glacier mountain cabin that didn’t even have enough room to swing a cat, the latter with a separate panoramic barrel sauna. For tiny spaces they were extremely well thought out, squeaky clean and excellent for our one or two-night stays.

Our very well-located cabin at Te Anau was part of the Backpackers, an accommodation option I haven’t used for many decades. I was a bit unsure about shared bathrooms — yes, I’m a snob — but my fears were soon allayed by the spotlessly clean facilities. A bonus of going outside to clean your teeth is night-sky views, with my teeth cleaning trip one night yielding one of my favourite holiday snaps, of Te Anau Lake with stunning night-sky colours.

At Wanaka, we decided who needs walls when you can stay in a yurt. Our yurt at Oasis Yurt Lodge was extremely comfortable and spacious, with a queen bed and a wood-burning fire (not that we needed it), excellent cooking facilities in a central lodge, and spotless and well-equipped bathrooms. The yurt was located on expansive lawns, with seating and games, with a woodfired hot tub at an additional cost. We had the best night’s sleep of our whole trip in the yurt thanks to the comfortable queen bed and the complete darkness.

We weren’t sure anything could beat the chapel, but our final quirky pad took the prize. It was a beautifully converted 1963 Bedford SB3 bus located in a peaceful, rural location just outside Greymouth on the west coast.

The bus had everything we needed, kitted out with a bedroom featuring a queen bed, a kitchenette, and a bathroom with a full-size shower. It was blissful sitting outside on the deck enjoying the peaceful setting and watching the cheeky wekas (a flightless endemic bird).

Owners Natasha and Phil purchased the bus as a bare shell in August 2022 and listed it with Airbnb after an 11-month renovation. “We never expected Bedford Hideaway to be so popular,” says Natasha. “We weren’t sure if a bus would be to everyone’s liking but have been pleasantly surprised with people’s interest and are thrilled that people get to enjoy our wee treasure,” she says.

The bus is popular, with a 4.98 Airbnb rating and strong forward bookings through to April. The average occupancy in the summer is 80-90 per cent, says Natasha. “We are so glad you enjoyed the bus as much as we love it. We love sharing it with other people,” she says.

We also stayed in motels, in Christchurch, Hanmer Springs and Akaroa, when I couldn’t find reasonably priced unusual accommodation. All were in great locations, very well equipped, clean and functional, and yet I yearned to spend another night in the Bedford bus or chapel.