Pantano Bar review: lively Latin American venue specialising in arepas, with options for all diets

Gluten-free bread is either overpriced or a piece of cardboard — sometimes both. Ever since my mum hopped on the gut health trend, she’s stocked our cupboards with bone broth, Woolies’ “free from” range, and collagen gummies. But last Sunday I managed to pull her from the wholefood aisle and into Willagee, where we visited Venezuelan restaurant Pantano Bar, for food that promises to keep your tummy happy and heart full. Arepas are made of corn and are entirely gluten-free, and here they are used as an alternative to burger buns. We tried the signature Pantano arepa ($24). The crispy corn buns sandwiched the chorizo patty and the cheesy sauce flooded through each bite. They stuff the burger with miniature fried string chips. This is the type of gluten-free burger I can get around. I had the Cuban Frita burger ($22). This was stuffed with shoestring chips. It was simple: potato, sauce and meat — you can’t go wrong. The beef and pork patty was smoky and semi-smashed, with a good barbecue aroma and very hefty. The tequenos ($24) were fried breaded cheese sticks with a guava cream cheese dipping sauce. The crunchy outer layer bubbled with little pockets of delicate airiness, and I enjoyed the ooze of the cheese that flowed through the core of this addictive side. We wanted a little freshness and tried their vegetarian tacos ($24). The plate came with three well-stuffed, fresh corn tortillas. There was plenty of avocado and feta, making it feel a little sludgy as we finished it off. However, the semi-soft corn tortilla was a highlight and I’m sure we would have loved the tacos if we had gotten a different filling. When I was ordering, I was offered a taste of their slushie selection. I tried a shot of the mango and a shot of the lemon. I fell in love with the lemon slushie ($8) — the flavour pinched my tongue in the right places. I enjoyed the sour squeeze of the tart drink, especially on such a humid day. For dessert, we tried their tres leches ($15), a sponge cake drenched in milk and cream. It was sweet, and when I squished down, condensed and evaporated milk oozed out in a sugary excess. It was good, but one to share to avoid a toothache. By the time we had finished, we were practically waddling. Pantano Bar is your one-stop shop for Venezuelan, with a vibrant menu that gives even the fussiest eaters something to talk about. Pantano Bar 4/60 Archibald Street, Willagee Open Sun-Thurs: 11am-9pm Fri-Sat: 11am-10pm Contact 08 6261 9118, www.pantanobar.com.au Bookings Yes The Verdict A lively Latin American restaurant specialising in arepas, with options for people of all diets. 16/20